No the title of this post does not refer to our personal hygiene whilst in NZ, its the cute colloquial name they give to going for a walk.
Next stop on our mammoth road trip across NZ was Wanaka in search of Jarlath's top tip - Eggs benedict at Relishes' Cafe. It was well worth the drive - best I've ever tried and its my favourite breakie - Kate had a fabulous fish chowder with perfect sourdough toast. Definitely the kind of meal to write home about (or in your blog for that matter).
Wanaka is nestled between amber hills overlooking a huge mirror-still lake. We could only stay one night as we had realised we were quickly running out of time until we had to be in Auckland. We watched "Mao's Last Dancer" (great movie, get it out) at the coolest art-house cinema where you sit on old sofa's or in the front half of a VW beatle if your very luckyand there is an interval for pizza and beer!
Bright and early the next morning we headed for a half-day walk in Mount Aspiring National Park - the drive in was epic, on unsurfaced roads with morning mist lifting to reveal Birds of prey perched on fence posts and deer scattering in the distance. As the snow capped ranges came into view the road worsened till we were bumping through feet deep fords and herding sheep out the way! Luckily we hired "el cheapo" - a beat up old car so no need to worry about the paintwork - for only £10 a day!
The views of the glaciers (and Mount Aspiring itself) were great and our luck with the weather continued as it was clear blue skies and warm sunshine - although the DOC had managed to induce a landslip whilst "upgrading" the Rob Roy track we had intended to do, so we stuck to an easy lowland valley walk instead. Glorious none the less.
Spirited by our first proper glimpse of mountains and snow, we decided to head for Mount Cook national park (with the highest peak in Antipodea) which committed us to the East coast route north. This meant missing the West coast delights of Fox and Franz Josef glaciers, which Kate had already seen. We decided to save the glaciers for the deep south of south America
This was a long haul of about 6 hours so we arrived in darkness to nondescript YHA hostel with little idea of what surrounded us. Next morning we awoke to clear blue again (sooo lucky) and frosted car windows. The source of all this cold....the tremendous Mueller and Hooker glaciers bearing down from the snow capped Mt Cook ranges. The walking here was serious mountain territory, so we elected for a conservative 3 hour route up to some tarns with views across across to the glaciers.
The start of the walk offered no illusions as we hit strait into steep rubble filled steps never ending upwards. Even though the air was still dry and freezing in the shade, we soon stripped off to thermals as we plodded head down and dripping with sweat - thankful we hadn't attempted to overnight with loaded back packs. The climb became increasingly technical, meeting 2 metre slabs of rock to scramble up. Eventually we came to a leveling out, and were surprised to see the sign pointing still upwards for our target tarns. Not wanting to allow fatigue to set in, we pushed on to find a boulder field marked only with poles, followed by a steep loose scree slope, where it we left to find our own route. By now I was really surprised - since all the other DOC walks had been really well manicured with overestimated times listed - but with fabulously clear stable skies, perfect alpine vistas and both in good form from all the walking, we were happy to crack on. So up we went finally reaching a rock strewn plateau with a decent snow covering. Kate was in top form, and had left me behind so I rushed to catch her up, to find a hut coming into view.
Now we had elected to take the easier route only as far as the tarns, leaving the full "Mueller Hut" route to more experienced walkers....but somehow, we had ended up completing the full route! And, it turned out, in pretty good time! So we were treated to panoramic views of the glaciers and Mount Cook range from the comfort of the Muller Hut's ample balcony! Just like the best skiing days, the sun shone down as we devoured squashed brie and avocado sarnies. Totally pukka day!
Actually, many people had made it up there, although some clearly ill equipped (in trainers and jeans!!), and we made it back down pretty smoothly. In more seasonal conditions, this route would have required ice axe and crampons, but given the late onset of snow, we lucked out and got a summer walk in late autumn.
So, back on the road once more, we agreed to drive as far as we could bear, before bedding down for the night in an unremarkable motel in unremarkableville. Next target....Nelson - where apparently the sun always shines.
